Ken Boddie

7 years ago · 4 min. reading time · 0 ·

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Where the Waters Fall There's a Dark Surprise

Where the Waters Fall There's a Dark Surprise

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Cool temperatures, misty spectacular waterfalls, and a Dutch built irrigation scheme aren't everyone's expectation when visiting Indonesia; but there we were, cool, wet and all agog, in a green forested wilderness on the lower northern slopes of Pulau Lombok's Gunung Rinjani, one of the three holy mountain volcanos in this part of Indonesia; the others being Gunung Agung (in neighbouring Bali) and Gunung Bromo (in East Java, a leap frog over Bali to the west of us). 

We were wet from the sweat of exertion, but cooled by the mist shrouding the base of the falls, standing knee deep in a refreshingly chilly fast flowing stream.

A couple of days earlier we had been sight seeing in humidly warm Mataram, the sprawling capital of Pulau Lombok, when we casually (but luckily) decided to visit the ancient Hindu temple of Pura Meru (pictured above).  Here we found that the three multi tiered 'meru' (or pagodas) are not only representations of the above three holy mountains, but are shrines to Shiva (the largest central meru), Vishnu (the menu on the left) and Brahma (to the right).  This temple tour sewed the seeds of our venture into the jungle below Rinjani.

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Hindsight proved that the three hour drive from our hotel base on Lombok's western beach strip of Senggigi, via the Monkey Forest at Pusuk Pass, was well worth the drive, and we pulled off the steep mountain road into the car park in the traditional village of Senaru, where our forest adventure would begin.  After a short walk down a snaking jungle path with well formed, mostly concreted, steps, we came across the first 'Air Terjun' (Waterfall) called Sendang Gile, pictured above. Quite a few visitors were taking a dip at the base of these falls, enjoying being massaged by the force of the water tumbling down from above.  

Our local guide from the village (a worthwhile investment of only a few dollars) urged us to go further up valley to the arguably even more spectacular falls of Tiu Kelep.  On route we passed an irrigation scheme, built in the days of Dutch colonisation, featuring a small dam and weirs, an aqueduct and an inter-connecting canal-like channel, the latter lined with chiselled river gravels and cobbles set in a cement grout matrix.  This lining system has survived the test of time and is still a common feature of Indonesia's irrigation channels.  River gravels set in concrete are also a common footing feature of the old Dutch built houses in many parts of Indonesia.

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Now upstream of the man-made containment, we were glad we had heeded out driver's earlier warning to wear robust strapped sandals, as, following our nimble-footed guide across a bed-load of slippery boulders and cobbles, we repeatedly crossed the fast flowing stream, which has carved this alluvial valley through the passage of geological time . 

Then, wow, were we glad we made the extra effort, because, rounding a bend in the river, there was Tiu Kelep roaring down towards us, like a burst pipe over a curtain of vertically striped white and green.

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But our guide wasn't finished with his package of surprises as yet. On the way back down the valley, ambling along in a haze of bliss, at one with our world of misty green, he casually asked us to save some time and effort by taking a trip along this 'short' tunnel at the distal end of the aqueduct. "It's only 30m long" he assured us. Already wet, and, anticipating a chance to take a short cut, we readily agreed as he switched on a small torch and we similarly used the torch lights on our phones. 

Three local village kids, who had befriended us at the nearby aqueduct (one wearing a Peter Pan-like leaf hat), joined us on the venture, showing us where to avoid the occasional deep spot.

Winding our way along in the dark, and with the flowing irrigation water up to our knees, we were fascinated by the integrity of the rock walls, as we edged our way slowly across a relatively smooth concrete lined base. Warnings about bats and spiders caused the occasional shiver, but these proved fruitless.  Every so often we encountered a shaft of daylight as a window appeared to our right (a ventilation feature carved through to the steep valley slopes a few metres beyond and parallel to our route).

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Eventually we exited into daylight at the far tunnel portal and climbed out of the channel. "Pretty long 30m", I ventured. In response, the embarrassed guide admitted that, if he had told us the actual length of the tunnel, we probably wouldn't have wanted to go. Smart young fella, I thought to myself, while enthusiastically thanking him for his 'dark surprise'.

Then it was time for a late lunch at one of the many restaurants perched high on the slopes bordering the rain forest, with impressive views of paddy fields and various fruit and vegetable plots. The grounds were decorated by an impressive kaleidoscope of tropical flowering shrubs and bushes, obviously thriving in the cool, clean and crisp mountain air. 

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All too soon it was time for us to leave this unique landscape and wind our way slowly back down to the coast and the long drive back to Senggigi. 

Now close to sea level, we drove and quietly reflected upon the day's encounters and the many amazing sights we had seen.  Pulao Lombok, however, was soon to gift us one more visual feast on this special day, and, as the rays of the setting sun dipped to kiss the horizon, we stopped by a small fishing village to soak in the following scene.

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For more on this year's Indo trip, why not have a look at these buzzes:

https://www.bebee.com/producer/@ken-boddie/durian-heaven-or-hell

https://www.bebee.com/producer/@ken-boddie/where-horses-and-bikes-are-the-taxis-of-choice

https://www.bebee.com/producer/@ken-boddie/sunset-heralds-more-bang-for-your-crater 

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When not researching the weird or the wonderful, the comical or the cultured, the sinful or the serious, I chase my creative side, the results of which can be seen as selected photographs of my travels on my website at:

http://ken-boddie.squarespace.com

The author of the above, Ken Boddie, besides being a sometime poet and occasional writer, is an enthusiastic photographer, rarely leisure-travelling without his Canon, and loves to interact with other like-minded people with diverse interests.

Ken's three day work week (part time commitment) as a consulting engineer allows him to follow his photography interests, and to plan trips to an ever increasing list of countries and places of scenic beauty and cultural diversity.


Comments

Ken Boddie

7 years ago #12

#12
A good zoom lens is my modus operandi, Dean-san. Sneaky? Perhaps, but time saving. 🤗

Dean Owen

7 years ago #11

That picture of the couple under the waterfall is incredible! Lucky he wasn't wearing speedos! I am always hesitant on how to take such photos. Do you ask permission, ask them to pose, just take a photo, or secretly just point and shoot from your hip? Loving this journey off the beaten path.

Ken Boddie

7 years ago #10

#9
Thank you for commenting Mohd.

Ken Boddie

7 years ago #9

#8
Enjoy your visit to the fair city of Perth, Gert. I usually visit there for my annual audit once per year but have been and done that far flung city this year. Thanks for the thought. 😊

mohammed khalaf

7 years ago #8

Treat your guests with genuine care, anticipate their needs, shower them with generosity, go out of your way for them, respect them regardless and always celebrate them! True hospitality will crate "craving" fans of your restaurant who will never leave you, will bring their whole tribe with them and even stick with you and your business through thick and thin.

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #7

#7
Ken Boddie The far flung reaches of SA are fine :) - thanks Ken. I am in Perth end October this year - any chance you are in the neighborhood?

Ken Boddie

7 years ago #6

#6
Thanks, Gert. Welcome to my back yard. Now how are the far flung reaches of SA? 😊

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #5

Ken Boddie Gosh Ken I envy these exotic travels of yours. Thanks for bring these far reaches of the world to us.

Ken Boddie

7 years ago #4

#3
Glad to sow the seeds of intent, Greg. Selamat jalan!

Ken Boddie

7 years ago #3

Glad to sow the seeds of intent, Greg. Selamat jalan!

Ken Boddie

7 years ago #2

Fascinating archipelago, Donald. Hope you get a chance to look at the other buzzes I listed on my most recent Indonesian trip. 👍

Donald 🐝 Grandy PN

7 years ago #1

Fascinating journey. Thanks for sharing.

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