Where Bikes are Cool and Two Wheels Rule

As many of you may know, my wife and I have recently returned from yet another trip to Indonesia, where we caught up with family and friends from ‘way back’, and did an extensive road tour of places, spaces and bases that either: 

• we hadn't seen since Adam was a lad; or 
• of which we (or at least I) had no previous recollection. 

In the latter case, being no longer a spring chicken, I find that a lack of recollection doesn't necessarily mean I haven't been somewhere before. In fact my doctor calls it amnesia, or is it insomnia?  Either way, I won’t lose any sleep over it. 🤣

In some three and a bit weeks we did an inordinate amount of driving. Not personally, but as passengers in cars, carefully belted up (often both literally and figuratively) due to the ‘code of understanding‘ between the various Indo road users. The majority of these users are undoubtedly motorbike riders (motorcycles to our US readers) and their often seemingly excessive number of passengers (more on this later). Indeed, to the unaccustomed foreigner, this ‘code of understanding’ appears to defy either traffic rules, safety, or logic, and is best accepted with good grace, particularly when another ‘near miss’ invites the occasional hand slap to the forehead, accompanied by rapid inhalation through clenched teeth, and closed eyes. 

[A busy junction in Yogyakarta (above), where the mix of traffic appears to move with an illogical ‘code of understanding’]

The alternative is to give way to road rage, a phenomenon rarely seen in Indo, except where foreigners are unwittingly (and foolishly) permitted to drive while applying inappropriate, traffic-rule-based logic.  

[Foreigners (above) inappropriately driving (or rather riding), AKA the author and his wife)

Imagine two swarms of flightless bees approaching from different directions, separated (theoretically) by an often imaginary white centreline. These are the inevitable hordes of high pitched Hondas, Yamahas, Suzukis and Vespas. Now add a random scattering of larger and less manoeuvrable snails, beetles, stick insects, moths and caterpillars to each swarm of bees. These are the cars, SUVs, trucks and buses, typically wedged in between and surrounded by the swarming bikes, yet all moving forward, at speeds inversely proportional to size, seemingly governed by this illogical (yet undoubtedly functional) ‘code of understanding’. 

[Swarms of bikes (above), all set to dart between and around larger vehicles, on the road from Salatiga to Wonosobo, Central Java]

It seems to the infrequent but regular visitor (like me) to the Archipelago of Indonesia, that, while much of the road traffic has increased linearly over the years, the predominantly petrol powered, two-wheeled fraternity has increased exponentially (ie there are now one helluva lot more ‘bees’ on the ‘Indo’ roads compared to their larger and heavier ‘insect-mobiles’). 

So now let’s look more closely at this mass of two-wheeled, 250cc maximum, motorised mobility. 

Affordability

As of May 2024 there are reportedly 124 models of scooter-motorcycles available in Indonesia, with Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki and Vespa being the most popular (">https://www.oto.com/motor-populer">https://www.oto.com/motor-populer).  I have summarised the pricing from oto.com as follows:

With lower end, popular, sedan car prices being in the approximate range of Rp 150 million to Rp 250 million (say Au $15,000 to Au $25,000), it is understandable that motorbikes and scooters are a popular choice for many households.  Add to this the greater fuel efficiency of two versus four wheels, then it becomes apparent why many families choose motorbikes or scooters over cars.  

Traffic Congestion and Infrastructure

As we found to our despair, many of the roads in Indonesia are heavily congested.  This not only applies to the main roads in the major cities, but also to the smaller roads ('jalan tikus', literally meaning ‘mouse roads’) in the suburbs and between major thoroughfares. The only roads where we found the traffic consistently flowing well were the tollways (motorways) where, in most areas (Bali excepted), motorbikes are not allowed. 

Furthermore, in many of the rural areas, the road infrastructure is not well developed and often poorly maintained.  It follows that motorbikes can prove more versatile in such conditions (whether due to congestion, poor infrastructure, or potholes) and can more readily navigate around such impediments to smooth travel.

Parking

In major cities and towns, parking is often a challenge, as indeed it is in many parts of the world. ‘Blind Freddy’ can see, however, that motorbikes take up much less space than cars, utes and trucks, and this is another reason why two wheels are so popular.

[Motorbikes parked along the popular tourist strip of Malioboro Street (above) and nearby roads (below) in Yogyakarta]

[Makeshift parking lot (above) near Finn's Beach, Bali]

Family and Work Mobility

Many of you reading this will have seen pictures of whole families crowded (seemingly precariously) onto motorbikes in Asia, and Indonesia is no exception.  While we found that the majority of users conformed to the maximum of two per bike, we did frequently see mums, dads and bubs all piled aboard, no doubt conforming to the ‘code of understanding’ rather than the formal road rules. The maximum number we encountered on one machine was two adults and three kids.

[Family travel (above) in Medan, North Sumatra]

[Youngsters (above) seem to adapt to the necessary balance for two wheeled travel at an early age, seen here in Medan]

Then there's the various adaptations which enterprising locals apply to their bikes, either for transporting others or for selling food.

[It's lunchtime (above) at Indrayanti Beach on the south coast of Central Java]

[Why use pedal power, as per the old style ‘becak’ or rickshaw bicycle, when petrol power does the trick (above and below) in Medan, North Sumatra?]

Road Rules and Safety

Even thought the road rules tend to be rather rubbery in Indo, fines can and will be handed out.  Common infringements incurred by tourists are reportedly (">https://balimotion.pro/en/blog/13-most-important-tips-for-driving-a-bike-in-bali-safely">https://balimotion.pro/en/blog/13-most-important-tips-for-driving-a-bike-in-bali-safely) as follows:

• Driving without an international driving licence (bear in mind that if things are going slow for the traffic police, you may, as a tourist, just get flagged down for a licence check, so better safe than sorry).
• Riding a bike without a helmet (while many locals fly below the radar on this, as the above photos will verify, I suggest that tourists may be an easy target, and, more importantly, a helmet may just save your life).
• Having more than two people on the same bike (Ha!).
• Driving past the stop line at traffic lights (this one is also a serious no, no!).

[Bikes waiting at the traffic lights (above) in Medan, North Sumatra]

Then there's the dress code. While cultural and religious factors result in most locals covering up while outdoors, tourists seem to take great delight in wearing next to nothing while on hired motorbikes and scooters.  I've observed, through my expended Indo family, that it's a bit of a joke with the locals that shirtless male tourist riders and bikini clad female riders, particularly in Bali, are probably Australian. I suggest that you keep in mind that accidents do happen on the roads in Indo, and that, depending where you are, hospital services may not be as available and as technically equipped as you may be used to back home.  Furthermore, when bare skin (travelling at speed) comes into contact with asphalt or gravel, it readily peels off.

So keep your skimpy attire for the beach and … Don't ride in your bearskin - cover up!

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When not researching the weird or the wonderful, the comical or the cultured, the sinful or the serious, I chase my creative side, the results of which can be seen as selected photographs of my travels on my website at:

https://ken-boddie.squarespace.com 

The author of the above, Ken Boddie, besides being a sometime poet and occasional writer, is an enthusiastic photographer, rarely leisure-travelling without his Canon, and loves to interact with other like-minded people with diverse interests.

Ken's work week (retired engineer), as a part-time or freelance English tutor to migrants, allows him to follow his photography interests, and to plan trips to an ever increasing list of countries and places of scenic beauty and cultural diversity.

#motorbikes #motorcycles #indonesia #bali #travel #photography