Ken Boddie

6 years ago · 5 min. reading time · ~10 ·

Blogging
>
Ken blog
>
The Mystic Magic of Central Java

The Mystic Magic of Central Java

" Ta | Ji of

Considering that Indonesia is on our doorstep, and one of our closest 'overseas' neighbours, so many Australians don't venture beyond Bali when planning a holiday there. Yet the heterogeneity of the Indonesian Archipelago is mind blowing. It's cultural, historical, linguistic, architectural and religious diversity has been moulded by various waves of colonial and trading influences - Arabic, Indian, Portuguese and Dutch.

Nowhere is this Indonesian diversity more accessible and available to the foreign traveller than in Yogyakarta ('Jogja') in Central Java, with its Adisutjipto International Airport and smart Tugu Railway Station. Yet the mystical magic of Central Java has been unlocked only for those relatively few westerners who come to view the world-famous Borobudur Temple (title photo, taken at sunrise, and below) or to study Javanese culture and language at Gaja Mada University in Jogja.

996f282d.jpg


So where to go? Boldly assuming that all you non antipodeans are just bustin' a gut to come on over and explore my backyard, here are a few ideas to set you on the road, starting with the major drawcard.

Borobudur - This is reportedly the largest buddhist temple in the world, thought to be approximately 1200 years old, and located about an hour's drive north-west of Jogja. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are some beautiful homesteads in the area, along with other temples and things of cultural interest to see, so it's worthwhile planning an overnight visit. This will also permit you to see the sunrise over the complex (title photo) and to see all the other photographers, who have been waiting patiently to get just the right pic of the sunrise view over the temple and surrounds. Reminds me of the joke, "Ask the caretaker for a long stand."

233e8979.jpg

Prambanan (below) - This Hindu temple complex, of similar age to Borobudur, is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is located much closer to Jogja, on the eastern outer suburbs, and hence easily reached by local taxi. As the complex is large and well spread out, in well kept landscaped gardens, it is worth the few dollars to hire a local guide. If you haven't seen the epic Hindu ballet, the Ramayana, or wish to see it on a grand scale, then return later for a nearby evening performance.  Get up close and personal with Hanuman, the monkey god, and the struggles of Rama and Sita, but check out the performance days and times, which vary between wet and dry seasons, or you'll be 'monkeying' around an empty stage. 

d9608b6a.jpg

Gunung Merapi (Volcano) - A short drive north of Jogja takes you up the foot slopes of Mount Merapi, one of Indonesia's many live volcanos. At the tour village you can take a guided jeep, land cruiser or motorbike tour (see below) of the area devastated by the last major eruption in 2010. This includes a bunker (see below) where scientists perished taking shelter against the lava flow. Finish your visit to the area with an hour or so in the impressive Museum Gunung Api Merapi, further downslope in the suburb of Sleman. But let's hope this is one trip that doesn't end with a bang.

2ad9c3d0.jpg

7f1d1d34.jpg

Taman Sari (Water Palace) - This complex is very close to the centre of Jogja and can be reached by becak (traditional trishaw bicycle taxi, see below), or dokar (horse drawn cart) from Malioboro Street. 

22b31b63.jpg

Today, only the central bathing complex survives in a well preserved condition, in what was formerly the Sultan of Jogja's splendid series of pavilions, lakes and tunnels. The central building in the complex (see below) was where the Sultan looked out on his many concubines bathing in the clear waters below, prior to selecting one to entertain for the night. 

8c44f826.jpg

380839b5.jpg

Many of the other surviving structures have been absorbed by the small houses of the surrounding village, Kampung Taman. There remains, however, a couple of fine sections of the original tunnels and some other interesting and architecturally unique structures (see below).

f1479a5d.jpg

a9e316c4.jpg

Kraton (Sultan's Palace) - No visit to Jogja is complete without a visit to the Kraton (see below), located close to the city centre. Although the buildings are now mostly vacant and many are sparsely decorated, there is still an impression of the splendours of days gone by.  There's also an impressive collection of horse-drawn coaches in the complex (see below).

19ae33d1.jpg

2cd3cc84.jpg

Fort Vredeberg - This former Dutch built fortress and barracks, a stone's throw from the tourist shopping centre of Malioboro Street, now houses an impressive museum displaying Java's modern history, including the Dutch and Japanese occupations.

05561ba7.jpg

There's also a delightful little cafe in the grounds, where you can kick back and rest your weary feet, taste some of the local delicacies and buy a few souvenirs, away from the hustle and bustle of the Malioboro markets and stalls nearby.

7379c7a7.jpg

Museum Affandi - this unique banana leaf house, with its colourful pool and associated buildings, was once the home of local deceased artist Affandi (depicted larger than life in the photo below).  It now houses some 250 of his paintings and many personal items.  It is well worth a visit, whether you are an art lover or an admirer of unique architecture.

c94d7b50.jpg

fb009fab.jpg
So welcome to my Yogyakarta,  derived from 'Yogya' which means 'suitable, fit, proper', and 'karta', meaning 'prosperous, flourishing', from which we get the 'city that's fit to prosper'. I hope that I've opened the window on this magical location just far enough to whet your appetite, with my choice of a few of the many interesting things you can see and do here and in the surrounding areas.

Then there's the shopping, the range of accommodation, what and where to eat, and of course the Indonesian people with their smiling faces and warm hearts ..... but that's for a later buzz.  Let's just, for now, consider Yogyakarta ('Jogja') your gateway to Java and beyond, because I know: 

Once smitten, you'll be twice high. 

So come on over and give 'Indo' a go.

Selamat Datang!


...................<<..................>>...................

For more of my posts on Indonesian life and places, why not have a look at these buzzes:

https://www.bebee.com/producer/@ken-boddie/durian-heaven-or-hell

https://www.bebee.com/producer/@ken-boddie/where-horses-and-bikes-are-the-taxis-of-choice

https://www.bebee.com/producer/@ken-boddie/sunset-heralds-more-bang-for-your-crater 

https://www.bebee.com/producer/@ken-boddie/where-the-waters-fall-there-s-a-dark-surprise

...................<<..................>>...................

56320348.jpgWhen not researching the weird or the wonderful, the comical or the cultured, the sinful or the serious, I chase my creative side, the results of which can be seen as selected photographs of my travels on my website at:

http://ken-boddie.squarespace.com

The author of the above, Ken Boddie, besides being a sometime poet and occasional writer, is an enthusiastic photographer, rarely leisure-travelling without his Canon, and loves to interact with other like-minded people with diverse interests.

Ken's three day work week (part time commitment) as a consulting engineer allows him to follow his photography interests, and to plan trips to an ever increasing list of countries and places of scenic beauty and cultural diversity.


"""""""""""""""""""
Comments

Ken Boddie

6 years ago #28

#29
I sincerely hope that the Shiraz fermentation process (yeast + sugar = alcohol + carbon dioxide) is enough to counter the bacterial input from animal waste, Lisa. After all, farmers have been using chicken poo, etc as a natural fertiliser for years, and I'm sure that the original treading of the grapes with sweaty feet, after a hard day's picking, would have even turned the Romans off wine, had it been thought problematic to consumption. Let's raise our wine glasses, Lisa, and drink to that natural bouquet! 👃🍷

Ken Boddie

6 years ago #27

#27
Perhaps I allowed may imagination to run away with me, Lisa, on the gathering process, as Kopi Luwak is a relatively large industry in Indo. The Dept of Ag in Oz, however, appears to agree with my scepticism. If you wish to learn more about this intriguing subject, then my good friend, Dr Google, will doubtless be all too happy to assist. 🤗

Lisa Gallagher

6 years ago #26

#23
Priceless Ken, please no fecal matter. I love a good, peppery red wine but please don't soak my grapes in fecal matter.

Lisa Gallagher

6 years ago #25

#22
Best served warm while seated on a stool Dean Owen? Pun intended or no? Shit is warm and steamy and it's called stool LOL!! Do you really like it?

Lisa Gallagher

6 years ago #24

#20
Ken Boddie, if I could have given you 10 plusses on this I would have. I could not stop laughing after I read about the poor soul who has to pick through the poo beans, you've had a cup of it (not the droppings... my laughter began there) and it's shit coffee- uhmm well, sort of literally?!! I want to see the pics. The people who eat and/or drink things we aren't privy to just rave about it. I don't think poo or shall I say, shit coffee beans would delight me. Soak them in bourbon and I will gladly have a cup. I don't even drink bourbon but for some reason that sounds a bit tasty.

Ken Boddie

6 years ago #23

This initial 'bo peep', Paul, is but a jolly jaunt around Jogja; judged justifiably to be Java's most jalapic jackpot. The grand tour of Java Timur, Java Tenga and Java Barat await your further pleasure, Pakde.

Paul Walters

6 years ago #22

Ken Boddie Thanks for this delightful 'jaunt around Java " . Ain't it grand !!!

Dean Owen

6 years ago #21

#23
Sounds like a challenge! Fried stinky tofu, Taiwan style!

Ken Boddie

6 years ago #20

#22
If it comes on a platter, With some tofu fried in batter, I will taste with some haste, But, please, no faecal matter! ☕️

Dean Owen

6 years ago #19

#17
#20 Oh yummy! Actually rather a pleasant tasting coffee if you have preference for less acidity. Best served warm while seated on a stool...

Ken Boddie

6 years ago #18

#19
I'd love to show you around the joys of Yogya, Gert, and I have a few family members who would be happy to assist. But I would suggest a more expert guide in the Prambanan area, as the temple complex (which includes Plaosan and Sewu temples) is extensive and the history beyond the retention of my ageing grey matter.

Ken Boddie

6 years ago #17

#17
Ah the delicious smell of kopi luwak, Lisa (the Indos have a problem with the letter 'f'). Banned by Australia's Department of Immigration, for obvious biological reasons, the beans are passed naturally through the digestive system of a civet ('luwak' in Bahasa Indonesia), which is more like a cat than a monkey. I've often wondered about the poor sod who's job is to retrieve the beans from a fresh pile of civet droppings. I've had a cup of this (the coffee not the droppings), which I'm embarrassed to say I paid for, in a coffee plantation in Bali, and have the photos to prove it. Personally, I think it's 'shit' coffee, how about you, Paul Walters?

Gert Scholtz

6 years ago #16

Ken Boddie Many thanks for the UNESCO video link. I would like someday to visit Prambanang - accompanied by you, Ken.

Gert Scholtz

6 years ago #15

#7
Ken Boddie Many thanks for the UNESCO video link. I would like someday to visit Prambanang - accompanied by you Ken.

Lisa Gallagher

6 years ago #14

#15
What is the traditional way coffee is served in Indonesia Ken? I keep thinking of the monkeys who poop the beans and those are used but I forget where that is popular? Foodies will say it's the best. I don't think I could drink that coffee lol. As for their calves, I noticed! It would be a very hard job, indeed. I like how you inserted song titles, you are pretty crafty there Ken :))

Ken Boddie

6 years ago #13

#12
I'll accept your 'global citizen' title, Praveen, and raise you a "gentleman and a scholar' my friend. 😀

Ken Boddie

6 years ago #12

#11
not a great fan of the traditional way coffee is served in Indo, Lisa, where I tend to prefer mint tea. Moving on from the 'lucky' former Sultan's propensity to rock and roll with his groupies, and since the subject of lava flows is too hot to handle, let me expand upon the rigours of the 'tukang becak' or Indo's version of the bikie. As you suggest, these guys are fit and have calf muscles like the biceps on The Rock or Mr T. Hard way to earn a living. As for the Affandi giant, all I can say is that 'art' comes in many shapes and sizes. 🤔

Ken Boddie

6 years ago #11

#10
So happy to please, debasish majumder . Bearing in mind your country's ancient former colonisation of parts of Indonesia, I trust that you may have some affinity with some of its culture?

Ken Boddie

6 years ago #10

#9
Bearing in mind your interest in things extraterrestrial, David, and my Scottish background, I'm sure we can work some transportation out between us. Why not start with a simple "Beam me up, Scotty"? 😂

Lisa Gallagher

6 years ago #9

What a great description of Jogja (java) which I first thought you were going to mention coffee ;-) I love the photos. I bet the Sultan felt pretty 'lucky,' eh? The very old buildings are well preserved and kept. The Hindu Temple looks amazing. Omgosh, I can't imagine being in that bunker when the lava came flowing down :(( The photo of you and your wife standing next to the statue of artist Affandi- love it! I wonder if the men who are human taxis ever get tired? That has to be a tough job physically but they have probably been doing it so long it's easy peasy for them?! Great tour guide Ken Boddie!

David B. Grinberg

6 years ago #8

Thank you for the virtual tour, Ken, very interesting. This should serve me well until teleportation is invented and I can visit you, Lance \ud83d\udc1d Scoular or anyone on the planet in a matter of seconds. Never know. Meanwhile, keep buzzing!

Ken Boddie

6 years ago #7

#5
Borobudur is certainly different to many of the other temples I have visited in my travels, Dean-san, due mainly to it being confined to quite a relatively small area for its height and splendour. There are, of course, other temples in the area and perhaps some of the original antiquity has been 'developed' out of the original concept, since the region in which the temples are located is quite suburban in places. Comparing some of the other fine examples of temples and places of worship around the world, perhaps their remoteness (at least compared to our modern day city locations) has preserved their intactness?

Ken Boddie

6 years ago #6

#4
You may be interested in watching the video of Prambanan, Gert, at the UNESCO website: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/642/ I've been to the complex a few times, as there are other temples and gardens in and beyond the grounds. As for Fort Vredeberg, a "Mountain of Peace" seems to be quite paradoxical, considering its history.

Ken Boddie

6 years ago #5

#3
The whole complex will "do your head in", Deb. Affandi's work is really impressive and the building is .... well quite different. I didn't have any photos to really do it credit. So, if you're ever in Yogyakarta .....

Dean Owen

6 years ago #4

Java Jives! A great write up. Being a little honest Borobudur has always been a little of an anti-climax for me. It is more of an "Oh!?" than a "Gasp!" as one might when visiting some of the temple complexes in Cambodia or Thailand. Personal preference perhaps, or just frustration that I've yet to take the perfect photo of the complex. Terima kasih Ken-san.

Gert Scholtz

6 years ago #3

Ken Boddie Prambanang really caught my eye here. Must be quite something to see it up close. And Fort Vredeberg which in Dutch means Mountain of Peace. Thank you for the tour and insight into Central Java. Cheers Ken!

Ken Boddie

6 years ago #2

#1
A mere stone's throw away from Ireland, Pascal, for a fit young fella like you with a good throwing arm.

Pascal Derrien

6 years ago #1

Not really a part of the world I know very well but I should ☺

Articles from Ken Boddie

View blog
1 year ago · 4 min. reading time

Come to New Zealand, they said! Go bungy jumping, they said! Watch Maori warriors do the Haka, they ...

1 year ago · 5 min. reading time

Introductory Geographic Lesson · I was tidying up some photographic files from a couple of years bac ...

1 year ago · 4 min. reading time

Is ‘Class’, in the social sense, an outdated assessment of our position in life? Does the feudal con ...

Related professionals

You may be interested in these jobs

  • Pepper Financial Services Group

    UX/UI Designer

    Found in: Talent AU C2 - 2 days ago


    Pepper Financial Services Group Sydney, Australia Permanent Full time

    The Role · The purpose of this the UX/UI Designer is to define and deliver the overall digital customer experience by being Customer centric and partnering with technology teams and the wider business. The success of this role depends on high levels of creativity and collaborati ...

  • Fujitsu

    Associate Technical Service Engineer

    Found in: Talent AU C2 - 2 days ago


    Fujitsu Canberra, Australia Full time

    REPORTING ANALYST · We are Fujitsu · We use technology to make happier lives. We are a global leader in technology and business solutions that transform organisations and the world around us. We have a long heritage of bringing innovation and expertise, continuously working to co ...

  • RSM AUSTRALIA

    Accountant

    Found in: Talent AU C2 - 2 days ago


    RSM AUSTRALIA Goulburn, Australia Full time

    OUR VALUE PROPOSITION · At RSM, our purpose is to instill confidence in a world of change for both our clients and our people. · RSM Australia supports a people-centric and collaborative culture where we are committed to empowering and developing you. As a leading professional se ...